Lamb Brewery, Chiswick

World’s first Brown Pilsner?

After an initial ordering confusion when I say “Helles” and the barman thinks I said “Guinness”, I get a beer and sit down.

I’m at the Lamb Brewery in Chiswick, London, much further west than I have ever ventured before. I am always on the trail of proper lager and have heard the Lamb brews some.

Darker than is typical and with a welcome bitter finish rarely found in German examples, Helles is a rich, chewy beer with loads of malt and notes of vanilla and foam banana sweeties, with a remarkable amount of body for such a weak beer (it’s only 3.8%).

It comes in an oversized jelly glass, like a stretched Hoegaarden, and as it warms up gets sweeter and breadier.

Location in a nice Chiswick back street

Gleaming copper-clad brewing kit

The brewpub itself is a combination of elements. Less hip and more expensive than the rough-and-ready setups of the East London micros, more rustic, it reminds me of German brewpubs, especially with the gleaming copper bar and brew kettle.

I’d come here if I lived nearby. I can imagine it’s a good place to spend an evening with friends.

On to the next beer. The so-called Pils is the darkest I’ve ever seen; the Lamb may have invented the Brown Pils (yes, I do ask if it’s the correct beer). More watery than the weaker beer, round and malty, dry and sweet at the same time. Muddy, no discernible hop aroma or bitterness. It’s not good at all and I gave up on this one.

The last beer I try is the American Pale Ale. Much nicer. Reddish and clear with a slight Cascade aroma. Nice resiny bitterness, it’s an enjoyable beer. Some sweetness, dry and toasty finish.

American Pale Ale in a nice glass, outside in the nice beer garden