A new life for the Old Forge
Although it is a long journey – over five hours from Glasgow, on hard, uncomfortable seats – the views make up for the discomfort. Finally arriving in the early afternoon at Mallaig station, the end of the line, I only have to cross the road, turn right at the Co-op and I’m on the pier for the ferry to Inverie. The ferry trip is worth the money if you don’t even want to go to the Knoydart peninsula, just for the scenery and the sheer joy of travelling on this old wooden-hulled vessel. The cosy cabin is a delight and downstairs there is even a bar serving bottled beer – Corona for the locals and Isle of Skye for tourists. The ferry may seem charming to visitors, but for the locals it’s literally a lifeline. It transports food and goods and chattels of all kinds from and to the peninsula, at a reduced fare for residents, with freight charged for at a pound or so per bag-for-life. The Skye Red is my first beer of the day, because I left Glasgow on the 8.25 am train. At that time even Wet
