Curlers’ Rest

Up in Glasgow’s trendy west end the other day, I was passing the Curler’s Rest and noticed it had been refurbished. It’s an inn with a long history and is one of the half dozen or so that claim to be the oldest in Glasgow. But unitl now, I’ve only ever known it as a grotty student pub. If university chums suggested going there, you knew it was time to make an excuse and go home, and possibly think about finding new chums.

Well, what a transformation. The interior has been redone with lots of exposed wood and big tables. It’s a little too dark for the North London Sunday lunchtime gastropub feel they’re so clearly going for, but none the worse for that. To me it has a sort of wine-cellar vibe. The menu too is a bit Observer Food Monthly with its slow-roasted pork belly and grilled halloumi (what, no lamb shank?). That’s not a dig; I like it a lot.

More importantly, the beer selection was a pleasant surprise. I was expecting to find perhaps one real ale and maybe Erdinger in the fridge (or Schneider Weisse if I was lucky). Instead, Deuchars IPA, BrewDog Alpha Dog, Black Sheep Bitter, Purity Ubu were on offer from handpump. Not bad; someone clearly knows what they’re doing and hasn’t just chosen the usual dreary regional beers.

Sierra Nevada Pale Ale and Brooklyn Lager are on tap, and from the megabrewers at least there is Pilsner Urquell and Paulaner to supplement the Staropramen and Heineken.

A pint of Purity Ubu was served, heavily sparkled, into a dimple mug (this retro affectation is amusing; it must be in some gastropub handbook, for I’ve encountered it in various similar places several times now). It’s a fruity, malty brown bitter that has a nice hop balance to it. The only thing wrong with it is that it’s much, much too warm — almost room temperature.

If the place had been this good when I was a student, I’d never have got any work done. If they can get the cellar cooled and lose the sparklers it looks like we could have a serious addition to our drinking scene in Glasgow.